To Exfoliate or Not to Exfoliate? That is the Question!

Scrubs are an important part of our skin care routine. New skin cells are created every 30 days in the lowest layer of our skin, the dermis. Over time our skin cells begin to move to the surface of our skin and become more acidic and within time become keratinized. Which is what protects us from environmental elements. As we get older our skin cells metabolize slower and uneven which gives the skin a rough and dry feel. By exfoliating we can remove the outer most layer and reveal the new smooth skin beneath. This removal of the outer layer also helps to unclog pores, keep our skin clean, can help reduce acne breakouts, and even get a closer shave.
But, what scrub is best suited for your skin type? Is Organic better than Synthetic? How often should a scrub be used? When should it be used?
These are all common questions we all ask ourselves when shopping around for an exfoliate. I always thought an Organic scrub has to be better than Synthetic, but found that my skin seems to know otherwise.
First, lets talk about the 2 different types of exfoliation we can achieve. There's mechanical which involves the physical use of an abrasive element against the skin. Some examples are microfiber cloths, micro-bead facial scrubs, crushed nut shells, sugar or salt, sponges, brushes, micro dermabrasion, etc.
Then, we have chemical exfoliation which can be used alone or in combination with an abrasive matter. Usually containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid. It may also involve the use of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) or Beta-Hyrdoxy Acids (BHA) which can be applied by your dermatologist or be purchased at lower concentrations over the counter for use at home.
Now, I have found that when exfoliating at home using a scrub with synthetic beads works better on my skin than crushed nuts. Typically the beads as you scrub have some type of oil (jojoba is the most common) inside them, and as they break down the oil is then released to provide moisture and more importantly providing glide on the skin. Friction and pulling too harshly on your skin can promote breakouts, premature wrinkles and just irritated skin.
I have also found that though the use of salicylic acid is great for inflammation and reducing redness moderation is always best. Which brings me to the next question, how often?

Always consult with your physician or skin care therapist for best results.

• If you have Sensitive Skin or what I like to call Reactive Skin, I would say using a scrub with synthetic beads about once to twice a week would be great. Make sure it's gentle! BHA's are great for this skin type as well.

• If you have Normal Skin once to twice a week would be great for you too! You could even mix it up with an enzyme treatment every once in a while.

• Combination Skin or Undecided Skin types really do well with exfoliation! Helps to keep that skin clear of trouble. You could probably exfoliate with a VERY gentle exfoliate ever day to every other day. This is my skin type and I use the Clarisonic skin care brush twice a day everyday. I could go on for days about that brush, we'll leave that for another blog!

• Acne Prone Skin, this skin type is angry. If you think about anger it's red, swollen, upset, and will not listen! The best type of exfoliation for this skin type is Chemical, definitely. Using an abrasive scrub is, well... Abrasive! It can spread the bacteria and cause more damage than good. Using an Alpha Hydroxy or even Beta Hydroxy topical is the most beneficial. Depending on the severity of the acne and the strength of the acid(s) applied this could be done as often as every day to once a month.

A good sunscreen with a MINIMUM Sun Protection Factor of 30 should always be applied to the face, neck and chest daily, especially after exfoliating.
A scrub should always be used after cleansing the skin. In fact I will go as far to say that I believe a good cleansing should be done before anything we do to our skin.
Exfoliation also allows for better penetration of other products we apply to our skin. Don't forget there is such a thing as over doing it too, your skin will feel overly sensitive and dry.

Tip: Always remember whatever you do to your face, should be done to your neck and chest! You don't want to have a beautiful youthful smooth face and a wrinkled neck!